Ten Years of
Ice Climbing


Slide 3 To


photo from Terra Galleria © Quang-Tuan Luong
I may look casual here but I'm fighting for my life! I may have the physical abilities to lead this but the mental resolve is far beyond me, especially in these wet conditions.

Here I have to pull up into a big pocket in the ice where Tuan rested for about 10 minutes placing a dubious screw and crouching out of the spray. Pretty good rest in fact but very awkward hunched over in the pocket (you can't see the pocket in this photo, it's on the other side of the icicle).

Out of this pocket rest comes the technical crux that day, it overhung about 10 degrees for 10 feet or so, then eased off to mere vertical and in another 10 feet or so and then the climb ended rather abruptly. Tuan just ran this whole section out, and I appreciated not having to take a screw out in the overhanging part. Psychologically, it became much easier once you muscled over the overhanging part because you got out from under the falling water.

Later the same year (Feb 96) I went back and led the Rigid Designator. This had been my goal ever since I first flailed my way up in 86. I doubt I will ever lead the Fang, it just terrifies me too much. I am happy just to have followed it a couple of times.

For more of Tuan's photos, see Terra Galleria.