The first edition of Desert Rock
In 1993 I rode around the White Rim Trail with a group of bikers and took the side trip up Taylor Canyon. After walking our bikes up the sandy wash the desert prophet appeared around a corner. There was no mistaking that famous pose. Rising 600 feet off the talus, it is one of the taller spires in the Utah desert. Walking around the spire I realized it is even more slender than it first appears. It is near vertical on all sides and from certain angles has an interesting grooved appearance, as if it has been extruded from the earth rather than eroded.
Even after I saw the spire, it took many years and several attempts to finally climb it. At one point John Byrnes (aka Lord Slime) and I were training for the Primrose Dihedrals route on Moses, widely acclaimed as perhaps the best route in the desert. However John really wanted to try to do the route free, while for me this wasn't a big consideration - it was hard 5.11 after all. Bill Wright had also the route on his list, but for one reason or another plans often went awry. For one thing the route was hard enough that we couldn't just jump off the couch and climb it, even at 5.10, A0. Crack training was required, and it is easy to convince oneself that you're not ready. Last fall we awoke at the drop-off to Mineral Bottom. We were fit but the sky was filled with gray clouds and it was cold. The day before we had an epic on a "mere 5.9 route" on Lighthouse Tower (a long story in itself, later we learned we were off route and did the FFA of the NE corner route, originally rated 5.9, A3!). Without saying much, we all got back into the car and drove back. Fortunately that day it was to rain over half an inch by noon, so we didn't feel like complete wimps.
Bill reasoned that it had been a mistake to "warm up" on Lighthouse before going for Primrose. After we had one tower under our belt, it was just too easy to stop. This time, Primrose was to be the first climb on the list. But Bill was also attracted by another challenge - he wanted to ride the entire White Rim Trail on a mountain bike in a day (80 miles of 4WD road rim to rim). I thought it foolish to attempt two huge feats on a single trip, yet Bill wanted to complete them on consecutive days.
The cast of participants solidified as the weekend approached. Tom Karpeichik, his SO Judy, and myself were only interested in the climbing, either we didn't own mountain bikes or didn't think we'd be able to walk the next day after such a monster ride. Tom was our certified "rope gun" as he had been flashing 5.11's. The bikers consisted of Bill Wright, John Prater and Mark Oveson.
We met at the Island in the Sky Visitor Center at 6AM with 6 people and 3 vehicles. Although it was March it was clear and crisp, a perfect day for riding. As the bikers suited up in their high tek gear, Tom joked that John's bike was worth more than his car. Soon the bikers were off, the plan was for them to rejoin us on the far side of the White Rim Trail under Moses. We climbers planned to do the Dunn route on Moses. We packed our gear and waited around for the Visitor Center to open at 8AM so we could get a camping permit.
By 8:30 we were finally on our way, having been forced to watch the required "leave-no-trace" video. A great idea but I'd wish they would open earlier! It was after 10 by the time we had driven all 3 trucks down to Taylor Canyon. The dust was terrible and it was clearly a dry spring. Almost exactly one year earlier I had taken my family to Arches and we had gotten snowed and rained on almost every day. We were surprised to find the end of the road deserted, it looked like we had the tower to ourselves.
Bill leading pitch 2, Primrose Dihedrals
Copyright © 1999 by Bill W. Wright
Tom soon started up the next pitch, a steep 5.10- corner that led to easier cracks. Our various topos indicated this pitch was long, so I had brought my 60m rope. But this wasn't much help as our second rope was only 50m. We ended up doing an intermediate belay at a small stance, and Tom led onward to the top of the pitch. Eventually all three of us were at the top of the second pitch, then I led a very short pitch to a huge ledge below the 5.11- crux pitch.
With three people it seemed to be going a bit slowly, but we were halfway up the route and it was probably only 1PM or so. The next section looked awesome and terrifying. It was a long right facing corner, overhanging all the way and starting at fist size and slowly getting wider. The final 50' looked like a pure hell of overhanging offwidth. Tom wanted this monster - good thing, because Judy and myself were wondering if we could get up it on top rope.
Tom charged up the crack, shortly popping off near a tricky horizontal roof. But he charged back onto the route and moved steadily up the overhanging crack. His tape job was slipping off and he was breathing like a locomotive, but he hung in there, cranking into a hidden cave and disappearing from sight. To our surprise Tom indicated that this was the belay (tip: take lots of #3.5-#4 Camalot sized pieces for this short pitch).
It was now my turn, and I knew it was going to be desperate because I had never heard Tom breathe that hard on any route. I fought through the undercling and managed to get a few fist jams past it. At this point there were some face holds in the crack, but rather than help me they soon burned my hands out and I was dangling on the rope. From here I had to rest on the rope several more times, it was an amazing lead. The rope led into a black cavity and I entered, groping blindly into a niche in the right wall Tom pointed me towards. This was a wild belay, the entrance was so narrow it would be impossible to fall out, even with no anchor (but of course, we had one)! Slowly my eyes grew accustomed to the gloom. The way out wasn't obvious, would we have to go back out and climb the offwidth?
Judy voiced her concern but gamely fought up the crack between rests on the rope. Tom then continued with one of the strangest pitches I've ever seen, it reminded me of the climb "Tunnel Vision" in Red Rocks. You burrow straight into the crack, it's a tight fit and very dark. Because the crack closes in below it's more like spelunking than climbing, protection is not necessary! After one particularly tight constriction (warning: you may not fit through this if your chest is larger than mine, ~41"), you can chimney straight up and there is even pro. Tom belayed at a huge ledge just below the summit.
I led the final short 5.8+ face pitch to the summit, nicely protected by 2 bolts. We celebrated on the large flat summit and checked out the summit register, which was in an ammo box. The Dunn route had been a great route, and it wasn't nearly as famous as Primrose. Except for the brutal crux section (which was about 30' long), the route had been mostly 5.9 with short sections of 5.10-, and the tunnel pitch made the climb even more memorable.
A Photo from Ascent 1980
Photo by Steve Hong
We had a reservation at a site along the Green River but the occupants of Taylor Camp below Moses had still not arrived and it was getting dark. We started cooking dinner while watching the evening light on Moses and it's neighbors. It was a beautiful evening in the desert and everyone was tired and happy from the day's adventures. The fun was soon shattered when a crew of bikers arrived with several vehicles - the true owners of this campsite. I hastily wolfed down my food as we packed back up and drove down to our Hardscrabble Campsite.
That night a windstorm blew in and filled our mouths with sand - we hadn't bothered with tents. The next morning was again clear and surprisingly warm. Several curious horses came by and were making a nuisance of themselves until Tom scared them away by screaming after them waving pillowcases. Mark had already returned to Boulder the evening before, now Judy and John headed off to Arches for a day of easy climbing (if there is such a thing on desert sandstone). Bill, Tom and I headed again up Taylor Canyon for Primrose. Today we reached the end of the road much earlier, about 8:30. As before there were no other cars (other than the bikers).
We opted for the easy but devious start, a horizontal 5.8 traverse from the notch East of the spire. I led this, probably the easiest pitch of the entire climb. It was still a great pitch, the exposure was immediate and wild. The rock on Moses is some of the best in the desert, Wingate as is Indian Creek. Fortunately the cracks on Moses are not as continuous as at Indian Creek, with a rest every 20' or less.
Pitch 2 fell to Bill, and I had heard this was one of the harder pitches if the Ear is aided. It is mostly between finger size and hand size, with a lot of finger jams and lieback moves. Tom and I were smiling in the sun and enjoying yet another day alone on the tower. We knew of the traverse left at the end of this pitch, but because of this Bill ended up traversing too soon rather than too late. This would have been a good place for the belay, as the third pitch went straight up from there, but there were no anchors. So he traversed back right, went up, and then back left to the normal uncomfortable stance below a roof.
Tom made the pitch look easy and soon it was my turn. At the start it was desperate off fingers, but with the benefit of the top rope I just kept moving and made it to a nice rest below a roof. Here a beautiful finger crack led upward. Gary Clark had given us critical beta on this puppy and we all succeeded without hanging by grabbing the nice lieback edge to the left. Then more difficult lieback moves followed.
Me leading pitch 3, Primrose Dihedrals
Copyright © 1999 by Bill W. Wright
The upper 3 pitches were in full view now for the first time, and looked intimidating. This, in fact, was the spot where one of the memorable photos in Ascent '80 was taken. Tom dispatched the next lead with apparent ease, a tricky finger crack followed by perfect hands around an overhang. Bill followed and then prepared to lead while I stayed below on the big ledge. It was a near perfect day - still not a cloud in the sky, warm in the sun, although not quite warm enough for shorts. An occasional strong gust of wind was the only flaw. We were still the only climbers on the tower, and in fact the entire canyon.
Just below the Ear, Bill encountered a short section of wide crack that was problematic. He struggled to place our #5 Camalot, but shortly made the moves to the hanging belay below the Ear (a belay we would skip). This pitch is rated only 5.9 but is no gimmie. After reaching down to retrieve the big cam, he started aiding the bolt ladder, which consists of 1/2" angles driven into holes. The last bolt is 10' shy of the end of the ear and sticks out about an inch. The bolt looks dubious for pro but makes a good foothold. Bill stemmed off this last bolt and tried to place our #5 Camalot, but the ear is still much too big. A couple of 5.10 free moves are the only alternative here, fortunately after a few feet it is possible to get a cam in a subsidiary crack inside the Ear. Still, it was a ballsy lead.
Tom belayed me up and then on toprope Tom zipped up the short 5.9 pitch and continued free climbing up the Ear. After some wild stemming he tried to transition into the offwidth and came off. He pulled on a few slings and then freed the rest of the pitch. I had no such illusions and had brought my jumars just for the Ear. I climbed the 5.9 pitch free and told Bill to fix the rope. Soon I was at a big ledge above the ear and Tom was already on top. We tunneled left into a weird 5.8 chimney and then repeated the face pitch to the top (all as one pitch).
Strangely, I did not feel elated as I realized my dream of climbing Primrose. In fact I had climbed Moses twice in two days! It was a beautiful day with two great partners and yet I was quiet and despondent as we shook hands and congratulated each other. Perhaps no climb can live up to your expectations if you dream about it for fifteen years. But there was more to it than this, I had to admit I felt bad leading only two of the easier pitches. When you give up a lead, but then complete a pitch on toprope without falling, there is always the nagging question of whether you could have led it. But of course you will never know.
We rappelled for the second time down the North Face and returned to the car. Once again Taylor Camp was deserted and Moses stood alone. Bill had the energy to finish the White Rim Trail on his bike. As we waited for him (a surprisingly short amount of time) I wondered if my peak as a rock climber was past. I never used to train for climbs, and I reasoned that increasing age could be counteracted by training.
Perhaps now I will go back to hiking and exploring the desert. The remoteness of desert towers, combined with high difficulty, soft rock and potentially bad belays often makes desert climbing a terrifying experience. But there is always one more tower to be climbed.
Postscript: The following year (2000), we returned to bike the White Rim Trail, car to car, in a day. I did some training for this marathon ride, and even bought a new bike with front suspension. Sixteen of us completed the 100 mile ride on a gorgeous day in early March. It took me just over 12 hours car to car.
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