Trip Report Index

Mt. Whitehorn from Mt. Robson, Canada

Men Wanted for Hazardous Journey Small Wages, Bitter Cold, Long Months of Complete Darkness, Constant Danger, Safe Return Doubtful. Honor and Recognition in Case of Success. Rumored Ad (ca 1914) for Sir Ernest Shackleton's Antarctic Expedition chronicled in the book: Endurance

Here is a list of all writings on this web site, organized geographically. Note that there are trip reports in here that are not in the Memorable Climbs Page. The slide icon ( ) indicates the trip report includes photos.

Some of these have been published (but are out of print). Others were written by, or in conjunction with, Bill Wright.

Alaska

• Mt. Huntington's Easiest Route (1985), (attempt) published in Summit Magazine
• The East Buttress of Denali, with descent via South Buttress (1986)
  • White Punks on Rope, originally written for Rock & Ice Magazine.

Pacific Northwest

• Fifty Crowded Climbs (1986), published in Ascent 89
  Ascents of the West Ridge of Forbidden and NE Buttress of Slesse.
• Mt. St. Helens: Volcano of Doom (1995), a simple ascent of this Cascade volcano nearly ends in disaster.

Canada

• The Lotus Flower Tower (1988), published in Climbing #131 (Apr/May 1992)
• Canada (2000) [by Bill Wright, on his web site]
  Ascents of Assiniboine, Andromeda, Wiwaxy.
• Canada (2003) [by Bill Wright]
  Ascents of the Mt. Alberta and Edith Cavell North Face.

Desert Southwest

• The Finger of Fate route on the Titan (1994) [with Bill Wright]
• The Kingfisher (1995) [with Bill Wright]
• Red Rocks - Fifty pitches in 4 days! (1996) [with Bill Wright]
  Climbs: Epinephrine, Dark Shadows (to the top of Mescalito), Black Orpheus, Lotta Balls, Black Magic.
• Moses Squared (1999)
  Climbing the Dunn Route and Primrose Dihedrals on Moses Tower, Canyonlands National Park.
• Resolution Arete at Red Rocks (2000) [by Bill Wright, includes topo and route descriptions]
• Shiprock (2002) [by Bill Wright]

Colorado

• Various ascents of Longs Peak
• D7 on the Diamond, Longs Peak (1994) [by Bill Wright]
• The Potato Chip in Eldorado Canyon (1995) [short]
• Ski descent of Buffalo Mt (near Silverthorne) (1997) [short]
• Flatiron Quinfecta (1997) [by Bill Wright, short]
• Scenic Cruise, Black Canyon of the Gunnison (1998) [by Bill Wright, includes topo]
• Climbing the Yellow Spur before work (1998) [by Bill Wright, short]
• Eldorado Climbing Marathon (1999) [by Bill Wright]
• Climbing Roach's *Top Ten* Flatiron Classics in a day (2000)
• Lizard Head (2001)
• Ellingwood Ridge on La Plata (2002) [by Warren Teissier]
• Crestones (2002) [by Warren Teissier]
• Skiing Longs Peak (2003)
• Maroon Bells (2003) [by Warren Teissier]

Wyoming

• North Face of the Grand Teton and Direct South Buttress on Moran (1996) [by Bill Wright]
• Complete Exum on the Grand Teton (2003) [by Warren Teissier]

California

• Wilderness Climbing in Yosemite (1994)
  Climbs: East Buttress of Lower Cathedral Rock, Yosemite Point Buttress, Northeast Face of Lower Cathedral Spire.
• The Nose, Yosemite (1996) [with Steve Shostek, long]
• The East Face of Mt. Whitney (2005) [by Warren Teissier]

Europe

• Wings of Nylon (paragliding experiences) (1988), published in Rock & Ice #33 (Sep/Oct 1989)
• Alta Via (1990), the Swiss-Italian High Route (Bernina-Bergell traverse) on skis.

Humor

• A Climbing Chain Letter (posted to rec.climbing in 1993 and 1994) [short]
• A Funny Rescue Story (1994) [short]
• My latest outdoor toy unveiled (1999) [short]
• The longest topo disclaimer you will ever see (2001) [by Bruce Binder, aka Brutus of Wyde (19??-2009)]

Historical

• First To Climb Lizard Head (1921) by Albert Ellingwood
  This document is quite difficult to find, although it is often quoted from. It is a fascinating historical record of Colorado climbing. Original publication in Outing Magazine, November 2021.
• We Climbed the Mountain That Couldn't be Scaled (1951) by George I. Bell, an account of the first ascent of Yerupaja in 1950. Original publication in the Saturday Evening Post, January 13, 1951.
• We Climbed the "Most Savage" Mountain (1953) by George I. Bell, an account of the first ascent of Salcantay in 1952. Original publication in the Saturday Evening Post, February 7th, 1953.
• I Climbed Again (1954) by George I. Bell, an account of climbing in Peru after losing two toes. Original publication in the Saturday Evening Post, December 25th, 1954.
• We Conquered the Mystery Mountain (1957) by George I. Bell, Further ascents in Peru. Original publication in the Saturday Evening Post, March 2nd, 1957.
• We Scaled Doomsday Mountain (1960) by Nicholas B. Clinch, The first ascent of Masherbrum. Original publication in the Saturday Evening Post, March 25th, 1961.
• The Brazos Cliffs (1972) by G. I. Bell, published in Trail and Timberline, No. 639, March 1972
• The Soft Spoken Mountaineer (1976) by Peter Potterfield, a nice biography of my father published in the Santa Fe Reporter.
• Adventures on the Titan (1995) by John Peterson (text only). This trip report was posted in stages to rec.climbing.
  By my good friend John Peterson (1956–2017).