Cirque of the Unclimbables Trip Reports:

These vary from stories published in magazines to brief e-mails I received from climbers after they returned home. Please send me your trip reports (or a link to them) so they may be included on this page! Trip reports are listed in reverse chronological order (most recent first). Note that trip reports before 1988 from the American Alpine Journal can be found in the References.

Here is an explanation of the columns:

2025 Note: External links to trip reports may not work, not much I can do about that. You can try doing a search on the author name and title to find the latest link.

Author/Trip Report Link (nationality) Year Title / Climbs Discussed Published Version
Christian Black 2023 "Shandy Boy Summer: The Cirque of the Unclimbables", LFT (35), Riders on the Storm (32b), Mt. Sir James MacBrien (42) www.freesnakeclimbing.com
Bill Wright (USA) 2023 "Lotus Flower Tower", LFT (35), Crescent Peak (46) Bill Wright's Blog
Quinlan Pfiffer 2022 "Sounth Nahanni 2022: The Cirque of the Unclibables", LFT (35) q.pfiffer.org
Elizabeth Hand and Alex Eggermont 2022 "Cirque of the Unclibables and the South Nahanni Rover", LFT (35), 32b, 23a, rafting kokopelli.com
Jacob Cook 2016 "Canoeing into The Cirque of the Unclibables", LFT (35), canoeing www.bronandjacob.com
Eva Holland (Canada) 2014 "Unclimbable", LFT (35) SB Nation
Finn McCann (Canada) 2013 "Cirque of the Unclimbables", LFT (35) finnmccannadventures.com
Katie Lambert (USA) 2012 "Free-climbing Mt. Proboscis in a day" (13aa) Matador Network
Caroline Van Hemert & Patrick Farrell (USA) 2011 "Cirque of the Unclimbables & Nahanni River", LFT (35) carolineandpat.wordpress.com
Ian Altman and David Barnett (USA) 2007? "The Journey", LFT (35) Alpinist Magazine Online 2008
Elena Mihaly and Tom Roop (USA) 2006 "Cirque of the Unclimbables 2006", Bustle Tower, Middle Huey Spire, LFT www.americanalpineclub.org
Tom Grundy (USA) 2005 "Cirque Adventure 2005", Rafting in, LFT (35), rafting out. This team approached and exited the Cirque using one-person pack rafts, it may be the first ascent of the Lotus Flower Tower done "car to car" with no air support. tom.grundy.tripod.com
Jay Knower (USA) 2001 "A Splattering of Paint: Failure and Success in the Northwest Territories", The White Tower FFA (22a), Light in August FA (22b) 2002 Canadian Alpine Journal
Jonathan Copp (USA) 2001 "Cirquetry", Don't Get Piggy FA (18a), Club International FFA (19a), Pecking Order FA (39a), Original Route on the SE Face of the Proboscis FFA (13a). 2002 American Alpine Journal
Climbing Magazine - Hot Flashes [written by Jonathan Thesenga] 2001 "Cirque of the Speed Climbables", Don't Get Piggy FA (18a), Club International FFA (19a), Pecking Order FA (39a), Original Route on the SE Face of the Proboscis FFA (13a). Climbing Magazine (#208, Dec 15, 2001)
Warren LaFave (Canada) 2000 "Warren LaFave's Conditions Report, 2000 season", general info on the 2000 season and flying in.  
John Young (USA) 2000 "Acting globally: AAC and ACC team up to help the Cirque", Cirque 2000 - Installation of a Toilet in Fairy Meadows  
Harry Seely (USA) 1999 "Harry Seely Trip Report 1999", Crowding problems on the LFT (35)  
Aaron Jones (Canada) 1998 "Bombing in the Cirque of the Unclimbables", LFT (35) www.summitpost.org
Jason Lanz (USA) 1998 "Jason Lanz Trip Report 1998", Original Route on the SE Face of the Proboscis (13), 3rd ascent  
Andreas Taylor (Canada) 1997 "New Route on Bustle Tower - July 1997", SE Face of Bustle Tower (19a), first ascent (Sean Isaac & Andreas Taylor) 1998 Canadian Alpine Journal
Pete Greening (UK) 1997 "Cirque of the Unclimbables - 1997", LFT (35)  
Paul Friberg (USA) 1997 "State of the Cirque 1997", LFT (35), (New routes: 19a, 22a, 32b)  
Russ Dodding (South Africa) 1996 LFT (35), SE Arete of Sir James MacBrien (42)  
Martin Roos (Canada) 1995 "The Status of the Cirque", LFT (35), NE Prow of Harrison Smith (3), (mentioned: 23, 47) 1996 Canadian Alpine Journal, out of print
Mark Kroese (USA) 1995 "Climbing the Lotus - Blitzkrieg Style", LFT (35) www.mountainzone.com
Gregory W. Frux (USA) 1992 "Journey to the Lotus", LFT (35) www.frux.net
George Bell (USA) 1988 "The Forgotten Yosemite", LFT (35), S Ridge of Unicorn Pk. (47) Climbing #131, Apr/May 1992, out of print

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