Lotus Flower Tower © 1988 by George Bell

Guide to The by George Bell Version 16: February, 2016

Mt. Harrison Smith © 1988 by George Bell

Where is this place?

Zoom in from the Canadian locator map!

"The Cirque of the Unclimbables" is the name given to a small cluster of peaks and walls in remote northern Canada, near the border of the Yukon and Northwest Territories. The Lotus Flower Tower, publicized in the book Fifty Classic Climbs of North America is perhaps the most well known climb there. It is also home to the awesome Mt. Proboscis, an amazing hunk of granite with easiest free route a fifteen pitch 5.12a! The Vampire Spires are a climbing area 15 miles northwest of the Cirque of the Unclimbables, they are not covered by this web guide.

What's New?

	1/31/16: Minor update completed. Added: 3 trip reports.
	Best URL for this web site:

Contents of this guide:

• Maps and other geographical information:
• A Canadian locator map with the location of The Cirque marked.
• A map of western Canada with the location of The Cirque marked.
• A schematic map of The Cirque (plus info on topo maps).
• A photo of The Cirque with the major summits identified.
• Distances to The Cirque -- air distances to nearby cities, plus driving distances to Watson Lake from major US Cities.
• General climbing information:
• Logistics -- how to get in and out, when to go, what to bring and more. Somewhat outdated, see the Mark Smiley document below.
• Cirque 2000 Project -- This is an ongoing project run by climbers and conservationists committed to the long term preservation of the area.
• Wilderness Code of Ethics: you should see this sign as you enter the Cirque (placed by the Cirque 2000 Project).
• Information on specific climbs:
• A comprehensive guide (Version 2/2/13) -- a text document, easy to print. Now contains 71 routes.
• Tips for Approaching the Cirque and climbing the LFT. Written by Mark Smiley in 2011.
• Lotus Flower Tower in a day tips. Written by Paul Friberg in 1997.
• Topos (10)
• Trip Reports (23)
• Photos (34)
• Cirque References and Links

How accurate or dated is this information?

This guide is updated every few years. My guide will always be incomplete, because many climbers to this area do not report their ascents. I have made an effort to include all recorded climbs through 2014. My main source of information is the American Alpine Journal.

WARNING! Rock climbing is, by its very nature, a potentially hazardous activity. Prior and competent knowledge in the use of various rock climbing safety devices is assumed. While an attempt has been made to insure that the information provided here is accurate, it is never a substitute for your better judgement. By use of the provided information, the reader hereby releases the authors and providers of said information from liability for any injury, including death, that might result. You have been warned!

Thanks to ...

• Greg Opland for helping me convert many of these topos and maps to electronic format.
• Clint Cummins for assisting in assembling the unabridged guide.
• Kevin Riddell for his contribution on the photos page.
• Paul Friberg for assembling the 1997 info.
• John Young for ongoing conservation efforts as founder of the Cirque 2000 Project.
• Andrew Querner for use of his photos on this site.
• Mark Smiley for an updated logistics guide.

Please send comments, additions, errors to:

George Bell